Mebbie's Visiting!

It started with a flight out of Chicago. Which was supposed to land in Narita at 3pm. But actually landed at 10pm. With immigration, baggage claim, and customs to go through before the last train at 10:41. And we made it!

Despite having endured 5 hours on the tarmac, and being rerouted, Mebbie and I actually managed to make it into Tokyo on Thursday night.

We then spent the next two days on a whirlwind tour of Tokyo- Asakusa, Ginza, Tokyo Imperial Palace, Ueno Park, Monjayaki Dori...

But there were two definite highlights: Taya Caverns in Yokohama and the Diabutsu (giant Buddha- pictured above)in Ushiku. Brian managed to find both when he was here, and I'm really glad we followed through on his recommendations. The Taya Caverns are this warren of rooms and tunnels that monks carved out of solid rock over the course of centuries. You walk through carrying just a candle, and looking at the incredible carvings that they put into the walls. It was meant to provide places that monks could be alone to pray, and it feels like a completely different world.

In contrast, the Ushiku Diabutsu is the largest statue in the world- it's about 3 times the Statue of Liberty. It was built in 1993, and is immense. It's a really amazing experience to see something that big, and the beautifully landscaped gardens around it are wonderful. Highly recommend both of these.

Mebbie's around for the next few weeks- we'll be doing a roadtrip down south, then taking a quick trip to Seoul, in addition to hanging out at home. Should be fun.

Kanji Name

I went to visit Julienne's former host family in Takasaki this past weekend. Much as I have been fed up about certain things here, you absolutely cannot fault people here on their hospitality. People can be rather shy and reserved if you don't have an intro, but if someone vouches for you they're incredibly welcoming and friendly. It was a really relaxing pleasant weekend.

During the weekend, they found out that I hadn't had my name put into kanji- only kana (it looks like this: エマ). So, they decided to do this for me. The process basically involves finding kanji with the same sounds as your name, then choosing ones that combine for a nice meaning. Mine are 恵真 . The first one means blessing, the second means truth. Apparently it's a very cute and Japanese sounding/looking name (or so I've been told). It was really fun watching the process- they'd think of kanji, then decide if they fit, or had the right connotations (too male, not a nice enough word, etc). They'd already done Julienne's name, which means "apricot in a pear tree."

I mentioned this to English conversation class last night, and they decided to do Brian's name too. Apparently this was a lot more difficult- there aren't many sounds that can mimic a consonant blend. He ended up with 武頼安 . The first one means samurai, the second respect, and the third safety. I also got a rundown of the meanings for people in the class- it's a nice aspect to the name which we don't really have in English. I was really amused that one woman's father had named her "rule/law, woman," because he'd wanted her to be a lawyer. She's now a teacher.

While I was finding the kanji online, and harassing nice teachers to type the ones I couldn't find, I finally got someone to put Yan Cha's name into type. It's not kanji, but I think it looks pretty: やんちゃ

Queries?

I have slightly less than two months left in Japan, and (while I'm sure I can come up with plenty of things to talk about all on my own) I thought I'd see if there is anything you readers are especially curious about. Anything I haven't mentioned? Things you'd like revisited? I really would like your feedback.

Thanks!

Swine Flu

So, I was all set to post a very glib little entry about swine flu in Japan (H1N1 virus). I am still in the middle of a quarantine because I went to Canada on my vacation. I'm required to report any coughs, fever, headaches, stomaches, or sore throats to the medical personnel who call daily.

When we flew into Narita, we were stuck on the plane for a little more than an hour after getting to the gate because the medical teams had to come through and approve everyone before deplaning (they're currently doing this for all incoming flights from Mexico, Canada and the US). This consisted of a medical questionnaire, temperature sensitive photos, and personal questioning. By medical personnel wearing paper body-suits, masks and hair coverings. It was an experience. They gave us masks on the way off the plane.

Osaka and Hyogo have closed somewhere in the range of 2000 schools for the week because of the flu presence there. Tokyo just started reporting their first cases.

I was all set to be slightly condescending, and mocking of the concern. And then I caught a cold.

Turns out it's not swine flu.

It's not flu at all.

But it does seem like it's a pretty cold-conducive situation to take two 12 hour flights in one week. Maybe they should quarantine anyone who does that. I certainly appreciated not having to call in sick (since I wasn't expected).

Niagara Falls

The Maid of the Mist is the oldest continuously running tourist attraction in North America, and (while on the boat), you reach a point where the mist is whipping your face and the seagulls are straining to hold their own against the wind. It's an incredible experience.

I'd always kind of assumed that Niagara Falls was a tourist trap, and that it couldn't be that cool. And it is touristy (you can see it as you drive down the main street with three different wax museums). But if you manage to stay off that couple of blocks it's really lovely. The area is set up with large boulevards and parks all along the area across from the falls (the falls are generally across from you if you're on the Canadian side), which is incredibly peaceful. The falls really are magnificent. Up to 200,000 cubic feet of water go over every second, and that's with a significant percentage of the water diverted to an electrical plant.

In addition to the falls, we took a wine tour through Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is the town on the Lake Ontario end of the river. Having not really heard anything about wine from Canada, I was a bit surprised to find that the Ontario region has a pretty sizable number of wineries. The tour was interesting- the wine was good, and it definitely helped to clarify what I do and don't like in a wine. The highlight was the last winery we stopped at, where we were able to taste wines with single differences (different varietals that went into a blend, different years, or different types of soil, etc.) to see what difference they made in the wine.

The week went by too fast, but it was a lot of fun. If you're headed to the area, we definitely have hotels/ B&Bs to recommend (and probably other things). Pictures are up from Niagara on Brian's Facebook account- email me if you need the link.

Toronto

I got back on Sunday night from spending a week in Canada with Brian. It was a really nice break, and a very relaxing week. We managed to view a slow-speed car chase (complete with turn signals), visit the CN Tower (tallest free-standing structure in North America), Casa Loma (a castle that a tycoon built around the turn of the century), and watch The Terminator for the first time (at least for me), among other things.

We spent a lot of the week exploring various pockets of the city and just wandering around, in addition to some wonderful meals. But the highlight of Toronto was almost an afterthought- we decided to visit the Toronto Islands if we had time on our last afternoon, and they were lovely. It's a small group of islands just offshore in Lake Ontario, with bridges between, very limited car access, and a park-like atmosphere. The city actually owns all of the land, and the people who live there own their houses and rent the land. It was really fun exploring- randomly finding a hedge maze, fun jungle gym, etc.

Pictures are now up on Brian's facebook account (the ones here are from that). Email me if you need a link.

I'll get to Niagara Falls soon.

Toronto

I'm leaving in the morning to spend a week in Toronto/Niagara Falls with Brian. Have a good week!

Allergies

I am allergic to rice pollen and dust. This is a slightly annoying fact that I would probably never have been made aware of if I hadn't moved to the middle of a rice field in Japan (the official name of the area I live in actually translates to "middle of the vegetable patch").

Upon arrival I suffered for a few weeks, figured out it wasn't a cold, and had my mom send me allergy medicine. I've been well stocked ever since. Luckily the harvest kicked in around the end of November and I was free of problems all winter.

Unfortunately for me, rice planting starts tomorrow. Thank god for allergy medicine.

Oh, want to know why they waited so long to plant when the weather has been good enough for the last month? Apparently Saku hosts a hot-air balloon race every spring, and they have to keep the paddies dry so that anyone who crashes has a place to land. It happened yesterday (while I was in Tokyo).

Frankie Manning

Frankie Manning died today. He was 94 years old.

I've never met him. Many of you have never heard of him. He lived more than a third of his life in obscurity. But he has made a huge difference in the lives of many people (including me).

Frankie Manning was one of the pivotal dancers who formed the Lindy Hop at the Savoy Ballroom in Harlem. He was a member of Whitey's Lindy Hoppers, had a film career, is credited with creating the air-step (or arial) dance move, and was a Tony-winning choreographer. He traveled world-wide from the 30s to the 50s (with a break to serve during WWII), performing for the likes of King George in England. From the 50s through the 80s, he worked as a postal carrier, focusing his time on his family. But in the mid-80s, he was found by a couple of swing dancers who wanted to learn from one of the greats. He taught them, and continued to teach, helping support the swing revival. The few remaining greats all became very valued teachers in the Lindy Hop world, but everything I've heard has suggested that Frankie was special. He really loved to see people enjoy the dance, and loved sharing that joy.

There was a national level swing event set to celebrate his 95th birthday in a few weeks. Unfortunately, he won't make it.

I never got a chance to meet him, but have heard nothing but glowing praise over the years. I hope he knew what a wonderful difference he made in so many people's lives.

The Best of Nagano

Yesterday I attended the Takato Cherry Blossom Festival. It's one of the top 3 hanami (cherry blossom viewing party) spots in Japan. There were absolutely beautiful trees all over. And it was packed (it is Japan, after all).

Hanami is basically an excuse for a picnic. People bring food (and usually alcohol, though I didn't drink because of the zero tolerance policy here), and tatami, and set up very elaborate picnics under the blooming cherry trees. In terms of Japanese festivals, it's definitely the most low-key I've seen. It was a lot of fun!

I drove there, and in doing so got to see most of the southern half of the prefecture (it was about 2 hours drive each way). I haven't been down in that direction since there was still snow on the ground, and it was really exciting seeing all the plants come back to life: there were blossoms everywhere (cherry, plum, daffodil, azelea, tulip, etc.). But the most beautiful part was that there is still snow at the very tops of the mountains, and it glowed at sunup and sundown (while I was driving). It was stunning.

Oh, and I got a surprise birthday party. The surprise? That my birthday isn't until July, but they decided to give me one now since Julienne's is this month and they didn't want me to feel left out. It was really sweet!

Photos from hanami and the birthday party are up on Facebook in a new album- email me if you need the link.

Busan

Busan is South Korea's second largest city (and largest port), and it feels pretty different from Seoul. The pace is more relaxed, and it's easier to walk from district to district (although my feet weren't happy after walking from Chinatown to the fish market). What was most different though, was the abundance of greenery (actually, white flowers, as it was cherry blossom season). There were plants everywhere. While part of this is because of its location nearer to actual wildlands, it's clear that there has been quite a bit of effort to bring nature into the city.

While there, we visited Haeundae Temple (see above), which was an absolutely stunning temple right next to the water. It was full of visitors (there was a festival coming up), but still incredibly beautiful.

In addition, we spent a fair amount of time wandering in markets. Clothing and food are surprisingly cheap here (although not so much as in Hong Kong), so wandering and eating is very common. There's some absolutely delicious street food you can get- mandu (dumplings), all sorts of stews, almost as many things on a stick as at the state fair (including hot dogs that are covered in fries, then fried), and festival pastries. It's quite the experience. Although, to be fair- I did not eat anything from the cart below.

Seoul

I love Seoul.

I said so throughout the week (actually, I think I kept saying "I'd come back here just for ...."). The food is delicious. The subway is easy to navigate. The shopping is significantly more varied than Japan. The dancing is plentiful (and good). And the people are AMAZING! They're so incredibly friendly and generous- I couldn't possibly have had a better time.

While in Seoul, a significant portion of my time was spent eating. Having only had Korean food provided by friends and restaurants in the Twin Cities, I really didn't know what to expect other than kimchi. Don't get me wrong- there was certainly lots of kimchi (which was delicious). However, the rest of the cuisine was surprisingly varied: stews, dumplings, sushi... all with a distinctly Korean flair. People in Japan say that Koreans have such beautiful skin because they eat so much spicy food that they sweat out anything bad. I prefer to believe that it's because everything they eat is so good!

We also visited the National Museum (which was incredibly impressive- especially for a free one), Changdeokgung Palace, myriad shopping centers, and some traditional craft streets. And I got to dance (twice)!

I could not possibly recommend a city more highly- I absolutely adored it. If you don't believe me, check for yourself. Pictures are up on Facebook (and I did take the ones above).

I'm Back!

Didn't miss the cherry blossoms either!

Posts are forthcoming about Seoul and Busan. Pictures are already up on Facebook.

Cherry Blossoms

Cherry blossom season is serious business in Japan; it's tracked like weather and reported on the daily news. All of my schools cut down cherry branches and brought them inside to force them to bloom for graduation. Hanami is a special kind of party, where you go out to eat and drink under the cherry blossoms. Stores are filled with sakura (cherry blossom) printed items (although, that's not too strange... it's like that most of the year). They serve cherry blossom tea this time of year(which is oddly salty).

It's considered the sign that spring is actually here... and it's early this year. I'm going to a Hanami event in mid- April: when they planned it, they were worried they'd be too early... now they're worried that the main blossoms will be over by then. It's really interesting watching a whole culture get excited about spring...

New pictures are up on Facebook. Also, keep your fingers crossed that I don't miss all the blooms when I'm in S. Korea!

Graduation

Today I had my first graduation ceremony. It's hard to believe I've been here more than 7 months already; it certainly doesn't seem like that long. But when I arrived, the 6th graders that graduated today were only 4 months into their year- they've grown so much!

I went into this year thinking "I hope I like this, but I can do anything for a year." Well, I have liked it (so far- I've still got a bit to go), but it really is true. You sort of forget how short a year is.

Challenge

In an effort to not spend my free time sitting under the kotatsu, looking at LOLcats, I've decided to jump on the bandwagon and take the 200 Sit-Ups and 100 Pushups challenges. I tested myself today, and while my sit ups are respectable, my pushups could definitely use some work.

I've got a buddy to keep me honest, and am actually really curious to try this out. BUT, it's always nice to do things like this with more people, so let me know if you're trying it. Or just ask me how I'm doing (right now I'm sore, but excited).

White Day

In the US (at least among my friends), March 14th is looked forward to as Pi Day. Celebrated all over by the consumption of pie. It's delicious, and I'm a fan (but only of the filling- crust is icky).

In Japan, March 14th is White Day. While girls give boys chocolate on Valentine's Day, boys are expected to give girls cookies (occasionally other gifts) in return on White Day. Due to the upcoming holiday, all the local stores have started to stock White Day gift baskets. They're really cute.

Check it out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_day

Language

I have finally mastered enough Japanese to successfully convey that I don't understand Japanese! Yay!

I can understand a lot more than I can speak, but that's mostly related to basic formalities and school topics. Anything outside of that, and my mind blanks. It's nice to finally be able to clarify that I have no idea what's being said.

There's a few new pictures up on Facebook (as a random aside).

Weddings

I am missing at least 3 weddings this year- unfortunately, it's just not feasible to go back to the States for them. While I'm sad about this, I'm also really happy that so much is available online- I can really see what's going on with the planning, even if I won't get to be there for the big day.

I haven't been invited to any weddings here, but I have gotten to hear about them (through Julienne, and the conversation classes). Let me just say- I'm REALLY glad that I won't have to go through all the hoops that throwing a wedding here involves. It's actually cheaper for the family to have a destination wedding (with a large wedding party) in Hawaii.

First off- guests are expected to give at least $300 (more if they're families), in addition to possibly hosting an after-party for the bride and groom (I've heard of up to seven happening over the course of the evening). From what I can tell, they're also usually responsible for party of the event. Oh, and they wear black.

Now, to the couple: the bride typically wears at least 3 dresses (kimono, Western formal dress, and Western party dress) over the course of the day. These are usually rented because they're so expensive. The groom usually has just two outfits (Japanese and Western style). They are expected to invite everyone they know- literally- and give them gifts to thank them for coming (at the last wedding, Julienne was given a catalogue where she was supposed to choose what she wanted as a gift). They're also expected to provide a gourmet meal for the guests- these may range in quality, but usually include at least seven courses.

It's quite the extravagant event- I'm torn between wanting to see one, and not wanting to be that big an expense for someone...

Law School Applications

...are finally submitted! Keep your fingers crossed for me!